K and I are in Lisbon. We’ve been here for two days getting ready for the incoming tide of 40+ Fords and Fitzgeralds that will all be here with us – if their flights go as scheduled – by the end of today.
I’ve managed so far to stick to my policy of working only six hours a day when I’m on vacation, thanks to K’s indulgence. But she’s had me putting in at least 10,000 steps a day seeing the sights, visiting the museums, and enjoying the neighborhoods and parks.
I’m happy to say that, given the limited time I’ve been here, I’ve managed to come up with two gross generalizations about Portugal and the Portuguese, which I believe with all my heart, as well as an observation about the power of paintings in museums when they are placed among other forms of art. At this point, I can’t say that I believe this one with all my heart, but I’d like to.
Gross Generalization #1:
The Portuguese Are Aggressive Drivers
Every taxi and Uber driver that drove us in Porto and Lison drove at least 50% over the speed limit. Our first Uber driver, taking us from the Porto airport to our hotel downtown, was literally doubling the speed limit at every point along the way. He was especially happy speeding around a twisty section of road, thrusting the car back and forth. At first, it felt like we were racing along on two wheels. But as the minutes passed, I began to realize that he wasn’t a crazy driver. Like taxi drivers in Korea, China, and Nigeria (to name a few), he was skillful, like a race car driver, and I could see that he took pride in his skill. Maybe it’s a thing in Portugal, a remnant of some tradition that lingers.
Gross Generalization #2:
The Portuguese Are Musically Inept and Un-Cool
Live music is standard fare in the tourist haunts of Porto and Lisbon, and most of it is US and UK rock and roll. You will be entertained by it almost anywhere you go – in bars, restaurants, nightclubs, on subways, at amusement parks, and on sidewalks along every road from one tourist attraction to another. What’s remarkable about it is how bad it is. The singing. The playing. And worst of all, the interpretation. I must have passed at least 50 street musicians during my time here, and I don’t think I heard one competent musician or one song sung on key.
By the way, I’m not saying the Portuguese are the only people who can’t sing our songs. The French are just as bad. I don’t know why. Let me know if you have a theory.
Observation About Art: Paintings Still Rule
“Traditional” two-dimensional painting is, to me, the most compelling visual art. In a museum, sculpture can take me in. But in a room with sculpture and painting, I’ll be putting most of my attention to the paintings. Monumental sculpture will absorb me – but outside, where it belongs. There’s no competition with painting there… nor is there competition with video art. That is its own thing. But in a large room with all sorts of installations and kinetic art and other media, a single painting, on its own, in a corner, will draw me to it.
That’s all I’ve got from my Journal today, and it may be all I will have till the 10th, when we fly back to Florida.
Até a próxima semana!
