More About Rome… 

On Tuesday, I said that what I like best about Rome is its people, the Romans. And that’s true. But even without them, Rome would still be my favorite city in the world because of its churches.

Not the churches you’ll find in tour guides. These are random churches – nondescript on the outside – that you can step into on any given street in Rome. And inside, you are enveloped in sumptuous, astonishing beauty. Sculpture. Art. Tile. Metalwork. Mosaics.

Before I experienced the churches of Rome, I had a common condescension towards Baroque art. I considered it overdone. But in its presence, I don’t have that feeling. Yes, there is a lot of it. One thing on top of another. But that doesn’t make me want to denigrate it. It makes me want to engulf myself in it, time and again.

On days like these, when we have nothing particular to do, K and I stop at almost every church we pass… and each one is a marvel.

More About Tour Guides… and Tourists 

Whenever I feel comfortable doing so, I ask our tour guides about the differences they experience serving tourists from different countries. I’ve asked this question dozens of times. And the answers are almost always the same.

Americans are at the top of the list because they are usually upbeat, unpretentious, enthusiastic to learn, and generous in their tipping. Japanese are up there, too, and for the same reasons. But the Japanese are, for some, overly polite. They tend to be restrained in expressing their feelings, so it is difficult for the guides to know if they are happy with their guided experience.

Canadians have all the same attributes as their USA cousins, but they aren’t as generous with the tipping. Europeans, including Eastern Europeans, are somewhat difficult to please and don’t tip at all. And of them, the French are the worst. “They are never happy with anything,” Nicholas, our guide in Athens, told me.

“So are they the absolute worst?” I asked, suspecting he had saved that for last.

“No,” he said, shaking his head ruefully. “It’s the Chinese.”

Chinese tourists, according to my personal survey, have the reputation of being almost impossible to deal with. “They are loud, rude, and pushy,” said a guide I befriended some years ago. “And they don’t listen to you. They don’t care about the history or culture of the country they are seeing. They just want to take pictures and rush to the next tourist site.”

I know. These are crude generalizations. They are not true for every French or Chinese tourist. And there are plenty of Americans that behave terribly. But we make generalizations for a good reason. Actually, for two good reasons. Because they are, in general, true. And because they are, generally, amusing.

If you’d like to take a look at some slightly more scientific surveys about “best” and “worst” tourists, here are three articles that might entertain you. Click here… and here… and here.

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The Urban Exodus Continues

For the last several years, there has been a steady outflow of wealth from major US cities. Businesses and wealthy individuals are abandoning their urban homes and relocating to smaller and more wealth-friendly places. According to one source I read, 80% of the employment growth in 2021 was in suburban, not urban, areas.

There are several reasons for this. The first and most important one is economic. It is much, much more expensive to live and work in New York, Chicago, or LA than Austin, Asheville, or Fort Lauderdale. Housing (owned or rented) is about 30% less expensive. Consumables (food, energy, etc.) are 10% to 20% less expensive. And taxes are a huge factor. By moving to Florida, for example, a business or individual from NYC will avoid both state and city income tax, plus higher taxes on everything from real estate to purchases of goods and services.

Traditionally, the response to complaints about higher costs in big cities has been to point out that they offer personal amenities (culture) and business advantages (a high-caliber employee pool) that you can’t get elsewhere. But the government-enforced COVID shutdowns changed all that. For nearly two years, tens of millions of Americans worked remotely. And in doing so, many of them – business owners as well as highly skilled employees – realized that being in the middle of a big city was no longer an absolute necessity. Businesses could grow and individual employees could contribute to that growth by working remotely. Since the beginning of this year, there has been movement back to the office, but all the surveys I’ve seen suggest that the return, as a whole, will be about 20% to 30%.

The third reason is crime. Violent crime in all of the major US cities has been climbing steadily since 2019, with a sharp upward turn during the BLM riots. The worst of the violence, the murder rate, has increased by 50%. But this is not a likely cause of urban flight, because the great majority of it is Black-on-Black and Brown-on-Brown (80% and 15% respectively, according to the FBI), which occurs in and affects the populations of Black and Brown neighborhoods.

Other violent crimes, such as looting, mugging, and assault, have risen along with murder rates. But much of it takes place in business areas. (Mugging, for our employees in Baltimore, is a disturbingly common occurrence.) And it affects the employees and CEOs of both large and small businesses.

When businesses and people begin to move away from cities, it is a bad thing. It means less energy. Less activity. And more shuttered storefronts. But when big businesses and wealthy people leave, it is even worse. It means that the city’s primary source of income (tax revenues) goes down. And that means fewer services, more boarded-up houses and stores, and higher crime.

This year, there has been some migration back to the cities. And that could be a good thing. But it has been almost entirely middle- and working-class individuals. The businesses that have left are not likely to come back.

And yet, so far, the mayors of these cities don’t seem to get it. They count on their inner-city residents, many of whom are on the benefit side of the economy, to keep them in power. But they don’t see that as revenues shrink, they will not be able to provide even minimum services. Will NYC, LA, and Chicago turn into Caracas, Mumbai, and Kingston?

Click here.

And click here for a story about the latest loss for Chicago.

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The Ara Pacis Museum 

Every time we are in Rome, K and I stop by the Ara Pacis, a museum built around a 2,000-year-old altar dedicated to the goddess of peace.

The altar itself is a never-flagging source of pleasure. Enclosed, as it now is, in an enormous steel and glass box makes it somehow better. (As you can imagine, the ultra-modern enclosure – part of a massive redesign of the museum – was controversial from the moment it opened in 2006.)

The museum is currently exhibiting a retrospective of the work of Robert Doisneau, the French photographer that produced those iconic black and white images of Paris between 1930 and 1950.

Like this one…

I love retrospectives like these. They give you the opportunity to see the scope of an artist’s work over a lifetime. It is always informative, and sometimes helps you understand why and how his/her reputation developed.

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American Wine

I never wanted to become an expert on wine. I just wanted to know a little more than my wine snob friends.

Recently, I became a customer of my partner’s wine biz: The Bonner Private Wine Partnership. It publishes educational articles and videos on its website from a true expert. (He looks like a gravedigger, but is enormously entertaining.) In a recent issue of “The Wine Explorers Letter,” he teaches something that I’m sure my wine snob friends don’t know: How old and respectable America’s wine history really is.

Click here to read the article and to watch a video explaining the seemingly unnecessary wine-sniffing ritual. (It’s all about biology and evolution.)

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To denigrate is to belittle, to treat or represent something as lacking in value or importance. As I used it today: “Before I experienced the churches of Rome, I had a common condescension towards Baroque art. I considered it overdone. But in its presence, I don’t have that feeling. Yes, there is a lot of it. One thing on top of another. But that doesn’t make me want to denigrate it. It makes me want to engulf myself in it, time and again.”

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Carole King had an interesting arc of celebrity. I always assumed it was based on her various relationships with more celebrated artists, like James Taylor and Mick Jagger. But in this clip, you can see how, back then, she had a very special voice…

Watch it here.

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