An Embarrassing Answer to a Simple Question

“I know this is a strange question,” JW wrote, “but how do you like to spend your weekends? I’m sure it has changed as you’ve gone through different seasons of life. But how did you handle weekends during your biggest wealth-building years? I feel good about my progress during a typical week, but weekends are my Achilles heel. Since my friends and family are off on weekends, I try to spend more time with them. While the time together is great, I also have a sense of guilt. I don’t get much productive work done. I don’t work out like I do during the week. My nutrition habits go out the window. It feels like I take five steps forward during the week and two steps back on the weekend. Do you have any advice for me?”

My weekends. I wish he hadn’t asked that. The answer is embarrassing.

My longtime partner BB worked non-stop during the week, but then devoted his weekends to building barns and reading scripture. His very unbusinesslike weekends seemed to give him the break he needed from writing and working out business problems and allowed him to exercise his body and different parts of his brain. Monday mornings, he always seemed reenergized.

I can’t say for certain that’s true. I never asked him. In any case, I’ve never had that problem.

I shouldn’t say never.

When I was in my twenties, when my family was young and we lived in DC, I adhered to the work-all-week/ have-fun-on-the-weekend idea. I jampacked our weekend calendar with things to do with the kids. That meant walks in the parks, visits to the zoo and the kids’ museums, going to kid-oriented movies, etc. I thought I was working hard and so I deserved to spend my weekends that way. That was then.

In my early thirties, we moved to South Florida and I began my career as a CEO and an entrepreneur. This made a big difference in my weekend schedule. I still loved “playing” on Saturdays and Sundays. But I realized I couldn’t possibly keep up with my work obligations if I didn’t squeeze in some work on the weekends.

In my early forties, I went harder at my work, and probably regularly worked at least six hours each weekend day. There were weekends I’d work straight through. I never saw NOT working as an option. People depended on me. I had things to do.

At 49, I decided I didn’t need to make any more money and made my second effort at retirement. I vowed that, as a first step, I would stop working on weekends. That lasted about a week. I worked harder in my fifties than I did in my forties.

When I turned 60, I tried to retire again and failed again. I continued to work weekends. Probably five or six hours a day.

Now that I’m in my 70s, I’ve really gotten control of myself. I still work on weekends, but I’ve cut the time dramatically so that I can devote as much time as possible to what matters. Which is never work.

I’m down to about four hours per weekend day. So… what do I do for the rest of the day?

Mostly, what I’m “advised” to do.

Why I’m a Conservative, Part II

I’ve always admired the way some traditional cultures value the elderly. The older women are depended upon for advice on matters that were traditionally handled by women, including feeding, clothing, and caring for the family. The older men are depended on for advice on matters that were traditionally handled by men, including negotiating agreements.

In these societies, grandparents aren’t left alone in the houses that their children grew up in. Nor are they deposited in retirement homes. On the contrary, they move from actively participating to an equal or possibly more important role: overseeing decisions that the next generation wants to make, and sharing their thoughts and feelings about the wisdom or lack of wisdom of those decisions – often by recounting stories about similar decisions they have made.

There are many such societies – but today, I’m thinking primarily of the Indians. (Oops! I mean Native Americans!)

Six Native Americans in a Tent 

In my imaginary and very generalized picture of a traditional Native American village, I see five men – three young men in their twenties and two middle-aged men in their forties.

They are sitting in a small semi-circle, having an animated discussion. Apparently, a neighboring tribe has killed – accidently, they claim – a member of the tribe who inadvertently wandered into their territory.

The three young men are furious. They want quick, certain, and terrible retribution. Their plan is to raid the other tribe that very night, burn down their tents, kill all the men, rape the woman, and kidnap the children.

The two middle-aged men are not so gung-ho. They say they understand and agree with the younger men’s basic sentiments. But they argue that now is not the time. The other tribe will be expecting a counterattack. It would be better, they say, to catch them off guard.

Unable to agree on a course of action, they decide to ask the chief for his advice.

The chief is in his sixties or seventies. Maybe older. When they arrive at his tent, he is sitting outside, one of his grandchildren on his knee.

“We are here for your counsel,” the men say.

“Yes,” the chief says, lifting the child from his knee and handing it to his wife. “I was expecting you. Come inside.”

They enter the tent and take their places around a small fire.

“Before we begin,” the chief says, “let us smoke this pipe to bring us together as one spirit.”

When the smoking ritual is completed, the chief listens to each of the five men in turn.

“I see,” he says.

“So, what do we do?” they ask.

“First,” he says, “I have some questions.”

He asks his questions and listens to their answers. Then he picks up the pipe.

“Let us smoke again,” he says. “I have a story I want to tell you. I remember a situation very much like this one…”

How I See This Working in the Military 

In Part I of this essay, I postulated that there are three levels of learning: ignorance, knowledge, and wisdom:

* Ignorance gives one the ability to believe almost anything if it’s repeated sufficiently.

* Knowledge gives one the ability to teach and lead the ignorant.

* And wisdom allows one to teach and lead the knowledgeable.

Here’s how that applies to the military:

The Ignorant are the recruits. The young men that have never been to war, and can only imagine (like me) what it is really like. In bootcamp, they learned about the mechanics of war, but they are completely ignorant of the reality of its horrors. And it is that ignorance that allows them to be stirred into doing the most incredibly courageous and stupid things by people they trust.

The Knowledge Keepers are the men that run the training programs designed to “ready” the recruits for war. Most of them have never been in battle themselves, but they have a good understanding of the tools, skills, and strategies of war, and many years of experience in teaching them. Their advanced knowledge of using weapons, driving tanks, flying planes, and so on, allows them to pass along what they know to the ignorant recruits. But their lack of experience in battle allows them to do something even more valuable: motivate the recruits to believe in the virtue of the war and go into it eagerly with fire in their bellies.

The Decision Makers are the troop and platoon leaders. The men who lead the recruits into battle. The men who have not just the knowledge but the years of experience and, thus, the instincts to confidently make on-the-spot decisions that will determine the outcome of every conflict for every young person under their command.

And then, of course, there are The Men Who Should Be Wise. The president and other elected officials that have the authority and responsibility to make the most important decisions. (Should we go to war? And if so, what is our commitment?)

In almost any group – whether it be a nuclear family, a military unit, a sports team, or a business – there is a natural and very healthy instinct to organize authority and responsibility in terms of the three levels of learning: ignorance, knowledge, and wisdom. When those given the authority and responsibility to make critically important decisions are respected as well as being wise, the likelihood of success is the highest. When they are not, difficult situations tend to go from bad to worse pretty quickly.

In Part III of this essay, I will tell you how the three levels of learning play out in business and personal affairs.

And then, I’ll try to show you how these universal patterns operate, or should operate, in our thinking about global relationships.

Why Cowboys and Not Cowmen?

I don’t know why cowboys are called cowboys in America. But it makes sense in the cattle country of Western Nicaragua.

There, most of the ranches produce beef. And almost all the cows are free-range. Which is to say that they are regularly herded from one grazing area to another almost every single day. This sort of herding is not what you see in the movies. It is slow and boring. It’s slow because those that do the herding don’t do it on horseback. (There aren’t enough horses for that.) And they don’t use lassos. They walk and move the cattle along by hitting them with switches.

And they’re young. When I say young, I mean 12 to 14 or 15.

It took me a while to figure out why the herding is done by boys instead of men. It’s because as soon as they get big enough to do the hard work of farming, their parents recruit them for that. Herding cattle, a much easier job, is left to their younger brothers.

I can’t explain why cowboys are called cowboys in this country. But I can share with you this interesting history of how the American cowboy came to be. Click here.

Why I’m a Conservative, Part I

Bill Maher, who has identified (and been identified) as a typical Hollywood Liberal for most of his career, has, in recent years, felt the need to explain why he sometimes makes fun of Woke ideas and Woke ideology.

His explanation is pretty good. He says something like:

“They [the Woke mob] accuse me of abandoning the cause in recent years. Not true. What has happened is that the center of Liberal consciousness had drifted to the extreme left. My values and beliefs haven’t changed. Theirs have.”

I take that to be a fair and honest description of Maher’s personal experience. And when I first heard it, I liked it so much that I thought about using it as a response to friends and family members that accuse me of having suddenly become a “Conservative” (i.e., Fascist, Racist, Misogynist, Homophobe, etc.).

But then I realized that, unlike Maher, my political, economic, and social views have changed. And that’s because, when I was younger, my opinions were based on what I knew back then – which was, in terms of making adult decisions, next to nothing.

Work, for example. From the age of six, I had chores that I was obliged to do. And I had my first job (on weekends and holidays) at the age of twelve. So, by the time I was a senior in high school, I had a great deal more experience than most of my classmates in working hard to make extra spending money. But I had no experience with the kind of serious financial obligations I would be taking on as an adult – to meet my own needs as well as the needs of my future dependents.

I began working full-time when I was 18 and have worked full-time ever since. And during those years, I learned a great deal more about making money. I also, very gradually, learned to make smarter choices in the way I managed that money to chart a better and safer future for myself and my family.

This is what we do – what we are programmed to do. It is how we survive and prosper in an unforgiving world. It is how we propagate our species.

This takes me back to the assumption behind both the criticism of Bill Maher and his defense – that there is something good about maintaining one’s ideas, views, and values as time passes. Think about it. It’s a completely dumb idea. Having the same ideas, views, and beliefs at 50 that you had at 20 is not virtuous. It’s a form of willful stupidity.

And this takes me to my current thinking. I don’t feel ashamed of abandoning so many of my younger beliefs and ideas. I feel good about it. I feel like what is happening in both my rational and emotional brain parts is what nature intended.

Becoming conservative as one ages is good for the individual, the social and work environments one lives in, for one’s particular DNA, and ultimately for the survival of the species!

The Three Stages of Learning 

At every stage (and facet) of life, there are three levels of learning: ignorance, knowledge, and wisdom.

* Ignorance gives one the ability to believe in and be stirred into doing the most incredibly brave and stupid things.

* Knowledge gives one the ability to teach and lead the ignorant.

* And wisdom allows one to teach and lead the knowledgeable.

We are all born ignorant. We are also born with an insatiable attraction to knowledge. Every major stage of life involves learning countless thousands of wonderous things and acquiring countless thousands of small, sometimes unconscious, physical, verbal, and mental skills. This is essential for not just survival, but success in every realm of human experience.

Wisdom comes from knowledge. Wisdom is about understanding the limits of knowledge and the danger of certainty. Wisdom is about realizing and remembering how many bits of certain knowledge one had at some point that turned out be untrue – or at least not as universally true as one had imagined.

Wisdom is a critical component of group intelligence – perhaps the most critical component, because it allows the group to try and fail, but live to another day.

In case you’re wondering where I’m going with this, I am not going to make the argument that political Conservatives are wise and political Liberals are unwise.

What I’m saying here is that whatever world one finds oneself in, there is always a tension around important decisions – between those advocating for quick and significant action, and those that pull back on the reins.

In Part II of this essay, I’ll give you some examples of how these three levels of learning work their way into just about every social institution and just about everything we do.

Good Deal or Dangerous Political Gambit? 

The US and Iran executed a deal on Monday – the return of five incarcerated Americans in return for the release of five Iranians.

That sounds fair.

But the Biden administration threw in some glicken by unfreezing nearly $6 billion in Iranian assets held in South Korea. The Iranians have agreed to spend the $6 billion for “humanitarian” purposes. And Qatar’s central bank will oversee the regulation of the unfrozen funds.

I judge that arrangement to be pure poppycock, a mutual PR stunt to subdue the obvious criticism that was likely to follow.

The US has long followed a policy of not paying for hostages. And from what I can tell, it has worked well. But now, in reversing this policy, opponents say that the US is sending a strong message to all the other anti-US terrorist countries: Just kidnap a handful of American citizens residing in or passing through your country. We can make a deal.

So why would the Biden administration make such a foolhardy deal, knowing that for the five coming home, 50 or 500 will likely be incarcerated in enemy prisons in the near future?

I can think of only one answer. Some smooth-talking foreign policy wonk convinced Biden and his backers that it would look good on the list of the president’s accomplishments in office. And it could work – at least with naïve voters – so long as there isn’t an eruption of kidnappings in the next 13 months. (Maybe that was assured with a handshake?)

For a mostly positive review of the deal, click here.

For a somewhat critical perspective, click here.

For an article on Iran’s frozen assets, click here.

And click here for a brief explanation of how the US came to its hostage policy.

Doubling Down on My Predictions for 2024

The 70 million to 80 million voting age people in America that hate Trump – whether they be journalists, lobbyists, pundits, or voters – have always found it difficult to believe that Orange Top would ever get the large and tenacious support he has gotten.

And because of their blinding antipathy, they were never able to see how foolish a political strategy it would be to highlight their condescending animosity towards him. That is why, during the 2016 elections, Hillary Clinton felt free to call Trump’s supporters “the Deplorables.” I believe that was the single biggest factor in her losing to Trump.

Today, these same people are even more surprised to discover that – after all the allegations and indictments they’ve thrown at him for six years running – Trump has held onto his base and is still so strong in the polls. (Click here.)

I’ve been saying for at least a year that Biden will not be running for reelection in 2024. For several reasons.

For openers, Biden no longer has the mental or physical strength to compete successfully against Trump in another nationally televised campaign. His handlers skillfully protected him in 2020 by severely limiting his public exposure – particularly on occasions when he’d be expected to speak extemporaneously. But that strategy is no longer possible. In the last 18 months, Biden’s physical weakness and mental lapses have increased so greatly that even a partisan media has been unable to ignore them.

The video evidence of Biden’s mental deterioration is abundant. If you think I’m being myopic in this regard, freebeacon.com is a website that tracks and publishes it weekly. Here, for example, are three senior moments that happened the week of the 2023 G20 Summit in India. Biden forgot:

* the year of his presidential inauguration

* the name and job title of the US Secretary of Defense, and

* whether or not it’s appropriate to stroke a little girl’s face.

Click here.

But Biden’s mental condition is not the only thing Democrat insiders are worried about. They are just as worried that he is going to be criminally implicated in the Hunter Biden investigation. The proof is piling up. There is now documented evidence (including tape recordings and canceled checks) that during Biden’s tenure as vice president under Obama, China, Russia, and Ukraine paid Hunter, Biden’s brother, and as many as a dozen other members of the Biden family at least $20 million, which was deposited into various anonymous trusts.

Though the mainstream media has done a fantastic job of keeping this story under wraps, with all that incriminating evidence coming into public view, it’s become difficult for them to continue to keep their audiences in the dark.

But I don’t think that’s what’s really going on. I think the increase in news articles and editorials that are critical of Biden is being done not just with the blessing of the Democrat machine, but in response to a plan to get rid of Biden that was hatched at least a year ago.

As I’ve said before, Trump’s support is at an all-time high and growing. Biden’s support is at an all-time low. And the felony indictments are galvanizing Trump’s base and even pulling in some undecided voters that see the indictments as third-world-level political ploys.

And this, the Democrat party leaders saw as a possibility a long time ago. So, they put together a Plan B.

Plan B is to replace Biden with a stronger candidate. Someone that has the credentials, the intelligence, and the charisma to compete with or beat Trump on the debate stage and in press conferences. It seems highly likely that the politician that fits that role is Gavin Newsom. So, I’m betting that he’ll be running against Trump next year.

I also predict that we will see an acceleration of critical coverage of Hunter and then his father during the next several months. The mainstream media will begin reporting on both the Hunter laptop scandal and President Biden’s mental decline on a weekly basis. Until it is obvious to everyone, including Democrat voters, that Biden has no chance of winning and must be replaced.

At that point, Biden will have to recognize that, considering his age and his health, he would be doing America a service by stepping down so that someone else, whom he endorses, can pick up the baton.

If the campaign for Newsom is to be ready in time, it must begin with a strong push by January 2024 at the latest. That’s why I’m predicting that Biden’s announcement will come before then.

Here’s the latest (and clearest) evidence that the left-leaning media is following the plan and gradually turning against Biden. The timing is predictable.

That’s enough about this for now. Sometime next week, I’ll give you my predictions for Newsom’s running mate and the issues the Democrats will highlight in their campaign.

Here I Am in London Again…

With Secrets of Direct Marketing and More Generalizations 

I flew here from Poland on Monday to meet with some former business partners and colleagues and give the keynote presentation at Fix Fest, a seminar on copywriting produced by two friends and former mentees who’d topped off successful careers by starting an advertising agency in London.

The gestalt of the event was unlike any industry event I’ve produced or attended. It was promoted like a rock concert and held in a large crypt under an old church in midtown. The marketing was successful, as more than 200 people bought expensive tickets for the affair. They had a sort of soul choir singing while eventgoers paraded in. The room was festooned with banners and bows. They had mystery guests and snacks and surprise gifts. During the afternoon break, they had one of those poetry slams. And I was on the poster as one of the two “featured” speakers!

Apart from the promotional and presentational aspects of the show, Fix Fest was unusual in that its lineup of speakers included both notable direct response experts and experts from the brand marketing industry (the ad agencies that produce TV commercials and magazine ads).

That they put us together surprised me. There is a longstanding enmity between us. Copywriters from ad agencies consider themselves superior to us direct marketers because they work in nicer offices, and win awards, and have TV shows made about them. They also consider themselves superior to us because the sort of work they do tends to be clever and entertaining (think Super Bowl ads), whereas our work products are, in comparison, wordy and mundane.

This distinction was palpable in the first two presentations. The first speaker’s speech title was “Solitude,” and the content was something about finding your headlines by walking alone in the woods… or some such thing. The second speaker was even worse in that his entire presentation consisted of showing the audience his award-winning work, which was, to give credit where it’s due, impressively creative. But it was also almost absent of any actual selling of the product he was paid to sell. I don’t know how ad agencies get away with doing that – except that their customers (marketing executives that couldn’t sell a pizza to a hungry Roman) don’t realize that what they are paying for is nothing but a big fat ego trip.

At the end of this second presentation, the speaker gave the assembled audience (most of them from our industry) a list of “rules about copywriting that are wrong.” Rules like “long copy sells better than short copy” and “funny doesn’t work.” I recognized the list. It came from one of the books I wrote on copywriting. The bastard was launching a grenade!

When it was my turn to address the audience, I couldn’t resist taking a few pot shots at my ill-informed fellow speaker. I told them that getting prospects to laugh takes skill. Getting them to cry takes even more skill. But the greatest skill a copywriter can have is to get the prospect to respond to the ad by forking over his hard-earned money.

I tried to stop there, but I couldn’t help myself. The attendees had paid a lot of money to be there, and I felt that I had a moral obligation to set them straight. Also, I felt that my fellow speaker merited another salvo.

So I told them that the only selling that brand agencies know how to do is to sell a business on the idea that the money they are about to spend on a brand advertising campaign will be worth it. It’s almost never worth it, I said, but that doesn’t matter to the agencies. And the client, if he’s a good client, has a multimillion-dollar advertising budget and no way of measuring the success of the ad in dollars and cents. He wants to see it on TV. He wants his friends to talk about it.

I should have stopped there. But again, I couldn’t restrain myself. I told them that there are hundreds of direct response copywriters that make million-dollar yearly incomes. To make that kind of money in the agency marketing world, you’d have to own the agency, I said. And it would have to be an agency at the top of the heap.

That accomplished, I moved on to other topics, such as how the industry has changed in the last 40 years and why they would probably be replaced by AI in the next five years.

The crowd seemed to enjoy it. But I was told afterwards that my microphone wasn’t working and nobody could understand a word I said. Never mind. Pearls before swine.

So… what about London? After my observations about the Poles in my last two posts, what can I tell you about the Brits?

I’ve been to London dozens of times, but I was never a big fan. I understood the touristy attractions – the Crown Jewels and the changing of the guard and all that. But I always found London a little depressing. Londoners lack the charm of the denizens of Rome, Barcelona, and  Lisbon. They also lack the je ne sais quoi of Parisians.

And the city itself, for all its attractive Victorian buildings, is noisy and dirty. Like New York.

And like New Yorkers, Londoners – at least the upper crust – feel superior to Americans. Not in the French or Polish or Chinese way. (People of those cultures are superior.) But in the Big Apple “We are the center of the universe” way. Plus, they drink an unbelievable amount of beer almost every evening after work. And they may be the most boisterous and pugnacious people in the entire world.

That said, they are loads of fun. (Though their sense of humor is absolutely impossible to understand.) And very accepting of you if you can stand up to them while draining down pint after pint of pilsner at a local pub.

And, of course, they have crappy weather. Which probably explains most of the criticisms I’ve just made.

To be fair, these aren’t my true feelings about the Brits. They are simply semi-serious generalizations. London’s denizens are, at some core level, just like us, their cousins across the pond. The good and the bad.

I’m writing this as I sit outside an elegant little bistro called Stoles Kitchen and Bar, served by an attentive and completely adorable young woman named Eliza, who speaks with the same cockney accent as Eliza Doolittle, but who, to her great benefit, has no idea who Eliza Doolittle is.

As I’m writing this, a man, about 50, walks by. He’s scrappy – almost homeless looking, but handsome in a crusty, weathered way. He passes and then returns to tell me how much he likes the aroma of the cigar I’m smoking. He says he could tell it’s a good cigar. “Is it a Chiba?” He asks. I tell him no, it’s not a Chiba. And that I stopped smoking Cuban cigars when I realized that every other one was “shit.” (The Brits are very fond of saying “shit” and “fuck.” I don’t know why.)

We fall into a lighthearted debate about cigars, and then I offer him one of the cigars I’m smoking, a Nicaraguan Padron Anniversario. “This is the best cigar in the world,” I tell him. He accepts it graciously. I cut it for him. He lights up. He’s smiling now. A smile that is genuine. This guy knows cigars. He shakes my hand. His grip is leather-wrapped steel. I ask him what he does for a living. He is a bricklayer. I ask him if he played a sport as a young man because I can feel that he did. He played rugby, he says. I tell him about my rugby experience playing for a French team in Chad. He tells me his best rugby story. We part as friends.

These things happen everywhere. But in New York and London, they happen all the time.

The steak is very good. And the wine, a Barolo, is as good as any I have had in Piedmont. And the prices, for the wine and the steak, are less expensive than K and I were paying for similar dinners in Poland. Factor that against the current exchange rate, and I’ve nothing but the best things to say about these annoyingly familiar cousins of ours across the pond.

Pleasure Before Business, Part 2 

Ms K has been treating me like an idiot on this trip. I resented it at first, but it’s working out quite nicely.

Yesterday, for example, we traveled from Krakow to Zurich, where I was to hop on a flight to London and she was taking a flight back to Miami 90 minutes later. The process began first thing in the morning, with her instructing me, in the simplest of terms, how to get my things together. Likewise, as we made our way through security and passport control. Likewise, boarding the plane and again before de-planing. In Zurich, she accompanied me all the way to my gate, to make sure I didn’t wander off somewhere and miss my flight. And she did all of this very matter-of-factly. As if this was how we always traveled, her guiding me like a very nice kindergarten teacher.

And me? Well, I found it very helpful indeed. It could be long-term COVID symptoms. Or more likely those untested and possibly lethal vaccinations. But the natural declination of my mental capabilities has become steeper in the past 12 to 18 months. To the point where it’s difficult for me to give the attention needed to read an electronic flight schedule board or find my seat number on my boarding pass.

I’ve always been absentminded. Which is why I don’t feel uncomfortable when Ms K or the kids notice that I’m not paying attention to what I should be. They worry that it’s early-onset dementia, but that doesn’t scare me. I’ve always told them that as long as I’m not soiling myself or in evident pain, I’m fine.

It’s actually reassuring to have Ms K tending to me so solicitously. I couldn’t blame her, after all she’s been through with me over these past 45 years, if she let me wander off into a crowded foreign airport one day, never to return.

That said… I want to catch you up on the rest of our stay in Poland.

After three days in Warsaw, we took a train to Krakow and spent four days there.

Krakow, like Warsaw, has its own rich history, including being next to several of the largest concentration and extermination camps of the Third Reich. We spent a day touring Auschwitz, which felt like something we should do. It did not evoke in me the feelings some of my friends have reported after being there. I think that was because I’ve been several times to the Holocaust Museum in Washington, DC, which was, for me, more edifying and considerably more moving.

Most of the tours at the camps we visited were comprised of slowly following an uninterrupted train of people that the museum’s planners had engineered to tread through at least a mile of corridors with nothing to see except blown-up posters of what had taken place in the buildings we were in. I am tempted to say that if you are in Krakow, you should avoid this “must-see” destination (as well as Schindler’s ceramic factory, which features much the same experience). But in the second half of the Auschwitz tour, I was strongly moved by seeing the cement cells into which the SS crammed prisoners so tightly that they had to sleep (and defecate) standing up. I won’t soon forget it. It changed me in some way.

The other two days in Krakow were taken up with doing all the recommended tourist things. And they were very good and gratifying, as such “traps” always are. There is a reason they end up being cultural clichés.

But what I want to tell you about Poland is this. If you haven’t gone, you should. It is an amazingly (to me, at least) clean and beautiful country, with an engaging culture, a fascinating history, and a citizenry that, though not disarmingly warm like the denizens of Italy, Greece, and Turkey, are nevertheless friendly and very good at making tourists feel welcome.

What else? Some generalizations…

Poles are, for the most part, a strong and sturdy race. Most of the Polish men I encountered had thick forearms, forelegs, and necks. They reminded me of my friend Ziggy, whose last name is almost entirely spelled with consonants. Polish men are not generally Fred Astaire or Rob Lowe handsome, but they could be competitive in a pulchritude contest with the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger.

As for the women, I can’t claim to have worked up a defensible generality because there are so many damn tourists in Warsaw and Krakow that I couldn’t be sure. But my guess is that, like most countries where the population is racially homogeneous, they are good looking in the way the men are good looking.

The Poles are a proud people. Not proud in a condescending way like the French, but proud in the way Americans used to feel proud of being American, before we discovered we were the most racist, homophobic, and xenophobic nation in the world. You can feel the pride when they talk about the beauty of their cities and countryside (undeniable) and their history of hundreds of years of suffering under German and Russian oppression. They don’t brag. But they don’t apologize either.

They are big beer drinkers and reasonably big eaters. But their cuisine is pretty much what you would expect it to be. A bit too heavy on the meat and potatoes and not much interested in marinades and sauces and the like.

As a whole, they support Ukraine. But not because they are left-leaning like so many Americans. They lived through Communism for many years and are happy to be done with it. But the memory of the German occupation and their anti-Polish racial doctrines are still very much alive in their memories. (Fact: Half of the six million Jews killed by the Nazis were Polish.)

They have many admirable qualities that perhaps they inherited from their occupiers. They are organized and efficient like the Germans. And they are durable and fun-loving like the Russians.

There is, however, one thing they have that needs to be fixed ASAP. Their orthography. Like the Slavs and the Germans, their lexicographers of the past were disdainful of vowels. Which means it is absolutely impossible to have a glimmer of a chance of understanding anything posted on the street or on a menu. It’s just a morass of Cs and Ts and Vs.

But if you are a tourist and favor recommended tourist spots as I do, you don’t have to worry about that. There is always a big, sturdy, somewhat handsome man or woman around that will be happy to advise you in English.

Pleasure Before Business

Chopin monument in Warsaw’s Lazienki Park 

Poland wasn’t on my bucket list. Apparently, it was on Ms K’s.

Next week, I’m in London for business. I get crushed by jet lag to Europe, so Ms K agreed to spend the prior week with me somewhere in Europe. I was looking forward to revisiting any of the great continental cities – Rome, Paris, Madrid, Geneva, Barcelona. Even Dublin, Brussels, or Edinburgh. But Warsaw? In Poland? Wasn’t Warsaw destroyed by the Germans at the end of WWII?

It was. Almost entirely. But what Ms K knew that I didn’t was that after the war, in the 1950s, when Poland finally broke from Communism and became a free and democratic state, the long-suffering but hardworking Polish people rebuilt Warsaw (and many other smaller cities) from the ground up. And happily, the designers and architects of this massive urban renewal rebuilt Warsaw as it was before the war – when it was a handsome and well-planned urban center with so much more to offer residents and visitors than almost any city I can think of.

The restoration wasn’t superficial. The urban designers, landscape architects, and engineers that put Warsaw back together again did so with an evident respect for everything that is wonderful about old (medieval) cities but including all the modern elements that make modern cities efficient.

Had Ms K not read me bits and pieces about the city’s history from her guidebook, I would have never known these beautiful, intricately designed old buildings were not, as they looked, 300 to 400 years old!

Our flight was 10 hours. Ms K found us a flight on LOT Polish Airlines, the only one with a non-stop from Miami to Warsaw. The pricing was good, so she put us in business class, which turned out to be equivalent to first class. The ride was smooth and the service was excellent, but I had a difficult time sleeping because my rebuilt knee just wasn’t having this idea of sleeping in a coffin-sized space.

On the drive from the airport to our hotel in the center of the city, we looked at the passing landscape. Green hills, greener forests, and swatches of manicured lawns and farmhouses. And the sun was bright, which is always a plus when one visits a new place.

Ms K is legendary for her carefulness with money, which has sometimes been a problem for me when the hotels she books look and feel like the residue of cost-conscious research. In this case, it looked like she had pulled out all the cautionary stops. The Hotel Bristol is elegant and almost imposing.

“Wow!” I said. “This must be the most expensive hotel in the city!”

“It’s the finest hotel,” she said. “But it’s not the most expensive.” That distinction apparently belongs to the Raffles Europejski, which she nodded at – a similarly sized, similarly impressive hotel just across the street.

If the outside was imposingly majestic, the inside had all the features and fixtures you would expect to find in the best old five-star hotels in the world, with a big, beautiful lobby leading to several bars and a restaurant, a coffee shop, and a library. An entire floor (below the main floor) was dedicated to a nicely equipped gym. Another entire floor offered visitors a world-class spa.

If all that wasn’t enough, as Amex-whatever cardholders, we were upgraded to a suite with great views of the city.

Do you know how nice hotel beds – the plush, multi-pillowed, blindingly white-sheeted beds – look when you’re exhausted from a long plane ride? Well, that’s what I saw in that room. I practically leaped into the bed without even taking off my shoes. I was fast asleep before the valet shut the door.

At two in the afternoon, we met Marta, our tour guide, a friendly, talkative local historian in her early forties. She arrived with Martin, a serious but courteous chauffeur who drove a very cushy and impressive 2023 BMW 760 Series sedan. We sat in the back, naturally. The seats were super comfortable, but the greatest surprise was that the headrests were like pillows. I lay my head back and almost fell asleep again.

We were at our destination, Stare Miasto (Warsaw’s Old Town) 10 minutes later.

Stare Miasto is an old-looking section of the rebuilt city that has none of the problems of some old European cities (crumbling sidewalks, scary corners, random trash heaps, and unwelcome odors). It has a clean look and a quaint personality equal to cities like Stockholm and Brussels and Bruges. Marta pointed out restaurants, bookstores, and historical monuments that we could come back and see another time. Then she walked us through Lazienki Park, which could very well be the nicest city park I’ve ever been to.

As I said, the weather was great and stayed great for the next three days, which gave us the chance to walk through other parks, other sections of the city, and to visit a good number of recommended tourist sites, such as Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), Zamek Krolewski (the Royal Palace), Katedra sw. Jana (St John’s Cathedral), Stara Pomaranczarnia (the old Orangery, now a museum), and the Belvedere Palace.

Two highlights. Highly recommended.

* The POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, a modern, interactive museum on the site of the former Warsaw ghetto. Similar in some ways to our own Holocaust Museum in DC, it commemorates the cultural heritage of the Jews in Poland (who comprised half of the six million Jews killed by the Nazis).

* The Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens. Unlike any gardens I’ve ever seen. Two acres of plants and ferns and vines and flowers densely covering the entire top of this monolithic building that rises nine or 10 stories from the ground. What makes it so special is the contrast between the architecture of the building – sort of half Brutalist, half Steampunk – and the softness of the gardens. I don’t have time to properly describe it. But if you get to Warsaw, you must check it out.

How to Write a Book About Your Family History 

For the past few years, my friend (and coeval) HB has been thinking about writing down his family’s story.

His parents and many of his uncles and aunts were holocaust survivors. He began collecting information and photos and clippings about them several decades ago. I’ve seen a smattering of his collection. It’s impressive. Daunting. Inspiring.

Several years after he began his research, I started digging into my (and K’s) family history. My sister D did much of the initial research, interviewing some of the relatives. I hired a young writer to follow up on D’s work. I even traveled to Ireland to meet some of my cousins on my mother’s side.

Worth noting if you do this: Your European (or whatever) family has probably NOT been breathlessly waiting for their American cousins to visit them all these years. You may get the chilly reception I got from my second cousin (once removed) when I tracked him down.

Act One, Scene One: Hero is knocking on a thick wooden door, the front entrance of a thatched-roof house on a hill overlooking the bogs.

Hero: Hi! Are you John Curran?

John Curran (eyebrows furrowed): Yes, that would be me.

Hero (huge smile): Fantastic! I’m Mark Ford, your long-lost cousin from America!

John Curran: So?

The Ford/ Fitzgerald family history is rich with names, birth dates, marriage certificates, and death notices of hundreds of descendants. There are some details as to locations and occupations. Even some wonderful stories. But those stories don’t compare to what HB has compiled. So I wasn’t surprised to get an email from him recently, telling me that he was determined to put all that he’s gathered into a book of some kind.

“I’ve decided I should go ahead write it down,” he said. “But I have this tremendous blockage of even starting to put it into words. My wife tells me I shouldn’t try to think it through before I begin. She says I should just start writing one story or profile and go from there. But I lack the confidence to do justice to the information. I also know that it will be lost if I do not. Any suggestions?”

I told him that I thought his wife’s advice was very good. “Since you are not an experienced writer and/ or biographer,” I said, “it’s best NOT to try to plan it all out in the beginning, however tempting that might feel. That’s just a subconscious tactic for putting it off until it’s too late. It’s better to do exactly what she says. Start with one person or one story, write it down, and then move on from there. However, if I were in your shoes (no writing experience and still busy with my life), I’d begin by hiring a genealogist to help put together the family tree. It’s not difficult if you have enough information, which I think you do. And when that’s complete, I would hire a professional biographer/ ghostwriter and work with him or her to turn that tree into a family history.”

For anyone reading this who would like to do some genealogical research on their own, here’s some information to get you started:

The difference between genealogy and family history 

Genealogy is the study of family ancestors with pertinent data such as birth, marriage, and death dates. Family history is an in-depth study of a family lineage with greater emphasize on and clarification of each ancestor’s life story.

The basic process  

Start by going back to your grandparents (four individuals), your great grandparents (eight individuals), and then your great, great grandparents (16 individuals). Going back to your great, great grandparents would place their birth lineage to the 1820 to1830 timeframe. Go back another hundred years to the 1730s and you have your great-great-great-great great grandparents. And they alone number 128 people. Which means there are many individuals to track and locate information about to create a full family history.

The role of DNA testing 

From the NYT: “In America, the question of ‘Where am I from?’ usually means, ‘Where did my family live before they arrived/ were forcibly shipped to America?’ Recently, there’s been a push to answer that question through DNA tests, which claim they can tell us exactly what percentage Norwegian or Nigerian we are. But there are catches. The tests can compromise our privacy, with the possibility that our genetic information could be sold to third parties without our knowledge. And they don’t truly reveal our origins so much as reveal who has similar DNA right now. Also, and perhaps more important: Culture does not come from DNA. It comes from lived experience, traditions, and stories passed down from actual people who shape our perceptions of the world.” To read the full NYT article, click here.

New resources, services, and options are added regularly on popular genealogy sites, including FamilySearch.org, a very large and very helpful free site. Also check out Ancestry.com and Archives.com.